Apples of the Earth

by Kathy Humphrey

Small, dirty and misshapen, clumped into bins and resembling the clods of earth from which they were pried, potatoes are definitely a tough sell in a visual society. Their constant availability and relative inexpensiveness play against them as well: we tend to value that which costs us more, whether it is in time, money, labour or attention. Finally, there is a lingering taint of poor nutrition about the common spud—there is no whole grain version we can upgrade to, and what about all of that butter and sour cream, anyways?

Food fascists can relax. Potatoes, like life, are what we make them. They are vegetables and offer an excellent source of vitamin C, potassium, carbohydrates, and fiber. Potatoes are incredibly versatile to prepare, store, and are also fun to grow (cut that soft sprouting old remnant lurking at the bottom of your potato bin up and throw it into the garden—you’ll be surprised at what it will yield in a few months!)

Latkes

5 baking potatoes
2 small onions, quartered
3 eggs
3 Tbsp all-purpose flour
3/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
vegetable oil, for cooking
sour cream and/or applesauce, for serving

Peel potatoes. Shred, alternately, with onions to avoid discolouration. Transfer to colander; squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Transfer mixture to large bowl. Mix in eggs, flour, salt and pepper; let stand for 5 minutes. Pour out any liquid. Heat 1/4" oil in large skillet until hot but not smoking. Using approximately 1/4 cup mixture per latke, add to skillet, spreading slightly to allow even crisping. Fry for 3 minutes per side (till well browned and crisp). Turn, fry 2-3 minutes on other side. Transfer to paper towel-lined platter; drain. Repeat, adding more oil as necessary. Serve with sour cream and applesauce as accompaniments.

Gnocchi

1-2 lbs potatoes, unpeeled
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tsp butter
2  1/4 cups flour
1 tsp salt

Cook potatoes (in skins) in boiling water till tender. Drain. Peel. Mash until no lumps remain. Make well. Put egg, butter, flour and salt into well. Mix into soft dough. Shape into long rolls (finger thick). Cut into 1" lengths. Bring large pot of salted water to boil. Add several gnocchi. When they rise to the top, they are cooked. Scoop out, keep warm until serving. Serve tossed with a tomato sauce, butter, basil and Parmesan cheese, or your favourite pasta sauce.

Potato and Cabbage Cakes

1/2 cup roughly mashed potato
1 cup cooked cabbage
1 green onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 eggs, lightly beaten
salt and pepper, to taste

Place all ingredients in large bowl and mix well (easiest done with clean hands). Heat generous dollop of butter or vegetable oil in large skillet: fry large spoonfuls of mixture in batches for approximately 2 minutes per side (until golden brown). Serve hot.

Herbed Potato Soup

6 potatoes, peeled and diced
2 cups chicken stock (can substitute non-tomato vegetable stock)
1 tsp dried marjoram
1 Tbsp butter
1 onion, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp flour
4 cups hot milk
1/2 cup whipping cream
salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

In large saucepan, combine potatoes, stock and marjoram. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; simmer, covered, 10-15 minutes, till potatoes are soft. Without draining, mash potatoes coarsely and set aside. In small skillet, heat butter and cook onion and garlic for about 5 minutes (until softened but not brown). Stir in flour, cook about 2 minutes, stirring. Add onion mixture to potatoes; stir well. Place saucepan over medium-high heat, gradually add hot milk. Bring to boil, stirring constantly. Boil gently 1 minute. Reduce heat to low, stir in cream. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in parsley and serve. (Can garnish with bacon bits, as well, if desired).

Edna Ruth Byler’s Potato Dough Baked Goods
(irresistible name: please note, this recipe can be halved!)

3 Tbsp yeast
1 quart scalded milk
2 cups mashed potatoes
1 cup fat (one-half butter, one-half lard)
1 cup sugar
12-13 cups flour
2 beaten eggs
1 Tbsp salt

Dissolve yeast in 1 cup warm water. Mix milk, potatoes, fat and sugar in large bowl. Let cool to lukewarm. Add yeast mixture and 6 cups flour. Let stand in warm place in kitchen for about 20 minutes (until it foams up). Add eggs, salt, remainder of flour, stirring, then kneading on lightly floured surface until smooth dough emerges. Cut doughnuts out: fry in skillet of very hot oil. Glaze while hot with 1 cup icing sugar, 1 Tbsp butter, 1 tsp vanilla, thinned with milk. (This dough can be used to make cinnamon buns, sticky buns, dinner rolls, and so on).

Kathy Humphrey lives in Victoria with her husband and two children. She tries to see cooking for a family not as a chore but as a creative outlet.