The Light That Never Goes Out

by Kathy Humphrey

Welcome to February, the short, sweet month that urges us to keep our heads down and push on through because the dark months are almost past. Mid-month, we’re distracted by a festival of chocolate, flowers, red paper hearts and arrow-happy cupids. Distraction, especially in the name of love, is a good thing. Love comes in all forms and is valuable at all levels: anything that can move us out of ourselves into wholehearted, unselfish consideration of another is wonderful.

The desire to share ourselves or something special is a spontaneous sign of love, and what is easier or more natural to share than a meal? Sharing with a loved one offers an opportunity to bring another love into the relationship—a favourite food. There are some loves that will never break your heart. They are always either furry, paper-bound, or found in a cupboard (not necessarily exclusively: we’ve all cuddled the dog while eating butter brickle ice cream and re-reading Pride and Prejudice). Cheese is one of my loves—a comfort food that I share with my human loves—but one that is too tough to write a love poem for: “My love is like a round, round, Brie...” or perhaps “When in disgrace with fortune and mens’ eyes, I all alone beweep my cheeseless state.” You see the challenge?

Drag your way out of the dark by using February’s built-in, bright red life preserver and show your loved ones some sugar with these delicious cheese dishes.  

Cheese Fondue
2 ounces butter
3 cloves finely chopped garlic
2 ounces flour
8 ounces coarsely grated cheddar cheese
2 Tbsp Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 bottle beer (not dark, can substitute unsweetened apple juice or dry cider. Remember that heat burns off alcohol, leaving only flavour)

Over medium heat, melt butter in saucepan, then add garlic: cook for 2 minutes. Add flour: cook 2 minutes, stirring well. Add cheese, cayenne and mustard: stir until smooth. Stirring constantly, add 1/2 bottle of beer, then the rest, slowly, until mixture becomes a nice, smooth dip which is thick enough to stick to bread. Serve with chunks of good bread, or vegetables to dip in: or transport to a fondue pot, or keep on stove and gather for an informal snack.

Herbed Cheese Bread
1 cup all purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1 Tbsp sugar
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp each baking soda and salt
1 tsp dried basil
1/2 tsp dried sage
1/4 tsp dried thyme
1/4 cup cold butter
1 egg
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1/2 cup milk
1 Tbsp poppyseeds

Stir together flours, cheese, sugar, baking powder and soda, salt and herbs. Cut in butter till mixture resembles fine crumbs. Beat eggs, yogurt and milk together in measuring cup. Add to dry ingredients all at once: stir to moisten. Spoon dough into 9" round cake pan brushed lightly with oil. Sprinkle poppyseeds over surface of the dough. Bake in preheated 400˚F oven for 25 minutes, or until toothpick comes out clean. Cut into wedges to serve. Serve with soup or a big salad.

Cheese Torte
Crust
1 cup butter
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla
2 cups flour
Filling
16 ounces cream cheese
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1/2 tsp vanilla
Topping
4 cups apples (peeled and sliced, can use peaches instead)
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/8 tsp nutmeg
1/4 cup slivered almonds, optional

Preheat oven to 450˚F. Cream butter and sugar. Add vanilla and flour: blend well. Spread this dough on bottom and sides of 9" springform pan. Combine cream cheese and sugar. Mix well. Add eggs and vanilla: mix well again. Pour into pastry. Dust apples with sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg. Arrange apple slices over cream cheese layer. Top with slivered almonds. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 400˚F; bake for 25 minutes longer  (or until golden around edges and set in centre). Cool on rack before removing rim of pan.

Pasta with Three-Cheese Sauce
1 clove garlic, minced
125 grams cream cheese, cubed
125 grams Brie cheese, rind removed
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup light cream or milk
1/4 cup chopped chives
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp each grated nutmeg, salt and pepper

In skillet, combine garlic, cream cheese, Brie and Parmesan cheeses, cream, chives, mustard, nutmeg, salt and pepper; cook, stirring, over low heat for about 8 minutes or until smooth. Taste; adjust seasoning. Serve with any long pasta, or dried egg noodles. Makes about 2 2/3 cups.

Kathy Humphrey lives in Victoria with her husband and two children. She tries to see cooking for a family not as a chore but as a creative outlet.